Although South Africa is counted amongst the New World’s wine
producers, the first grapes were pressed for wine at the Cape, 350 years
ago,in 1659 under Jan van Riebeeck. He had come to the Cape in 1652 to establish
a settlement on behalf of the Dutch East India Company.
Vineyards were planted more extensively a generation later,
when the French Huguenots began arriving from 1688 onwards, fleeing religious
persecution.
First under Dutch and then British rule, the Cape became
famous for its Constantia dessert wines. By the late 18th century they
were being served in Europe to the nobility and when Napoleon was
exiled to St Helena, in 1815, it is said they brought him some solace.
Such was their renown that Jane Austen, Charles Dickens and Baudelaire
wrote about them.
By the late 19th century and early 20th century, German and
Italian immigrants began settling at the Cape, introducing winegrowing and
winemaking traditions of their own.
For most of the 20th century, the local wine industry was
controlled by the KWV or the Koöperatiewe Wijnbouwers Vereeninging
Beperkt van Zuid-Afrika (Co-operative Wine Growers’ Association Limited
of South Africa). Founded in 1918 to represent the interests of wine
farmers and regulate the stable growth of the Cape’s wine industry, it
was privatised in 1997, allowing for the deregulation of the industry.
Another impetus for freeing up the industry was South
Africa’s return to international trade after decades of isolation under
apartheid rule. With political reform and the advent of democracy in 1994,
there was an influx of financial and intellectual capital into the wine
industry.
Locally trained winemakers began travelling to other
wine-producing countries, to study abroad or work in the cellars of
leading winemakers in the Old and New World. Viticulturists began playing
a far more prominent role and producers became keenly aware of the need to
focus on noble cultivars, to use superior plant material and also to match
varietal with terroir, in the process discovering and developing new
winegrowing areas. They also began adopting techniques to better express
specificity of site in flavour profile.
At the same time, producers began developing a
conversancy with international markets, and with the needs and demands of
consumers.
A concerted effort was also made to begin benchmarking against
international wines, with world-respected palates from abroad becoming a
regular feature of local competition panels, affording a wider frame of
reference.
Even though South Africa’s presence on contemporary world
markets is still in its relative infancy - spanning no more than a
decade-and-a-half - the country’s wines consistently earn positive
attention. They also win prestigious awards on showcases such as the
International Wine & Spirit Competition and International Wine
Challenge in London, Vinexpo in France, Concours Mondial de Bruxelles in
Europe, Sélections Mondiales des Vins in Canada, as well as on other
Organisation Internationale de la Vigne et du Vin (OIV) events.
Stylistically, South African wines occupy the middle
ground between Old World and New. Structured for elegance and
food-compatibility, they nevertheless express prominent varietal flavours.
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